In 1880 a prominent businessman from North Carolina named Charles G. Yates was traveling through Texas and documented noteworthy findings along the way in his journal. This documentation was later published in his local newspaper. Born in Virginia, the 53-year-old traveler had settled in Greensboro, North Carolina in his younger years, becoming the town’s first mayor in 1857.
The documentation of the journey starts after a stop in Iredell, Texas where Yates looked to catch a stage to Comanche to spend a week there with his son and family. The wait for a direct stagecoach to Comanche was too long so Yates secured a stage to Stephenville. Yates recalled of his journey between Iredell and Stephenville, “The country along this stage line is rather even and unbroken. We crossed but one creek after we left the Bosque River till near Stephenville, but several little branches, and our road was very obscure and might have been called a “by-way” as appropriately as a road. Much of our route was remarkable for the few buildings and farms.” Yates continued, “Nine tenths or more of the land seemed unenclosed, some of it very good with some portions knolly and rocky. The stage driver told me the soil in this region is very good and productive. The whole country here seems rather level other than a little range (called mountains here) of hills lying all along our right and they look almost entirely barren.” Yates asked his driver what land was selling for in this region and the driver responded “$5 to $10 an acre here but I own some land east of here I would sell you at 50 cents an acre!” Knowing the abundance of free use public land in Texas of the time, Yates pondered “But what is the use of a man buying and owning land here and paying taxes on it when he can graze all his stock upon public land free of charge?”
Yates’ stage arrived at Stephenville by 5 o’clock and he had
supper at the Texas Hotel. After supper he waited 5 hours on his next stage
connection to Comanche and commented, “It is now 11 o’clock and still I wait, this
is more loving than riding on the rail.” Finally at 2:30 in the morning his
stage arrived. Upon entering the stage he met fellow traveler a Mr. William
Greene who was also on his way to Comanche to see about his sick daughter being
treated there by Dr Payne. The two struck up an instant friendship, especially
when Yates learned that Mr. Green was also from North Carolina. The two men
enjoyed much of the route through sandy soil before stopping at Dublin for
breakfast.
Yates and Green arrived in Comanche by noon from Dublin and
went to see about their respective families. Yates spent the next week with his
son and family there and remarked about how well established the town there
was. However while there he was involved in a wagon wreck with a tree that detached
the horses and sent him to the ground causing back and ankle injuries which as
he put it, “I came very near getting killed!”
While waiting on his stage out of town, Yates met a man there
who had journeyed the exact route Yates would be traveling as he returned home which
consisted of stagecoach travel through Dublin, Stephenville, and up to Gordon
to catch the Texas Pacific train east. The man, referred to as “Mr. G”, swore he
would not be traveling back home via the same route through Gordon. “I would
rather hire a private conveyance and take two or more days to get to the
railroad, rather than back by that place Gordon!” Mr. G exclaimed. When Yates
asked why, Mr. G responded, “Because they don’t mind killing a man at all there,
for as I took a stage Gordon the other day there laid a dead man just out near
the stage stand!” Mr. G. continued “While in town I heard that one man got mad with
another and just knocked him down and the blow killed him. I supposed it was
some foreign railroad laborer, but I never got a clear answer on that.” Mr. G.’s
account got the attention of Mr. Yates, but it wasn’t enough to discourage his travel
plans.
At Comanche, Yates loaded up on a stage bound for Gordon
accompanied by a fellow traveler, Mr. White, who was a lawyer from Coleman. The
plan was to make it to Gordon to catch the 1AM eastbound train, however they
were two hours late in starting their journey. Yates enjoyed the uncrowded
stage but soon realized that the stage driver was new to the area and the road
toward Stephenville was on the obscure side, with few signboards, and before
they knew it their driver took the wrong road, and they traveled some 8 to 10
miles out of the way. Not only did they get off course, but they also traveled
some of the roughest roads with a washed out by-way to get back on the intended
stage road. They had lost a lot of time but were still determined.
The stage stopped at Mr. Parkers stage stand. There he met a
fellow North Carolinian who was banged up from a recent wagon accident and was
stranded until he healed up a bit. The man urged Yates to stay there a few days
and catch up on travel and North Carolina tales. Yates declined but did stay
long enough to have lunch and drink some nice local buttermilk. Finished with
lunch, Yates and White boarded a new stage bound for Dublin.
Yates arrived in Dublin by evening and remarked that “Dublin
is a small town, but they are grading a railroad along through its borders and
it may yet be quite a place.” At Dublin Yates and White got on a stage with a
pony team of four, Yates remarked “With this team we made much the fastest time
we had made with any other team.” However, during this leg of the journey the
stage driver suddenly stopped the stage to announce he had just seen a centipede
cross the road between his horses. The men got out and hunted the quick moving “hated
poisonous serpent”. After a short look around they found him on the edge of the
grass and studied him. Yates had never seen one in person. He described it as “A
remarkable worm something on the order of our thousand legs (as it’s called)
but grows to the length of 6 or 8 inches and has a forked tail.” They counted
50 legs down each side and noted that each leg had a “nail, claw, or little
hand looking horn.” The driver explained “the centipede will pierce with its
claws, injecting poison as efficiently as a rattlesnake sometimes causing flesh
to slough off and sometimes causes death!” This of course led to Yates and the
men to kill the innocent centipede traveler before they got back on the
stagecoach. Later on in the trip Yates would purchase a centipede in a jar to
take back home.
The stage pulled into Stephenville after dark and he and
White had supper at the Texas Hotel before setting out with another new team and
driver named Jake bound for Gordon. They knew they wouldn’t make it there
before 1AM that night but were determined not to miss the next train out of
there at 1AM the next day. The stage road to Gordon was very rough and he
attributed this to it being the “up country” of the state, just recently
inhabited. Yates noted that it was about a 35-mile trip through the dark of
night and this new driver Jake was older and seemed to be very experienced, so
experienced that he preferred not to light his lamps to see the road. Jake exclaimed
“the lamps blind me, and I just prefer to drive without them.” Yates and White
determined that the driver left out the fact that no lights also limited their
exposure to robbers along the stage route, as talks of stage robbing were frequent
in this area and this line in particular. The stage route between Stephenville and
Gordon had become very heavily traveled since the depot went in at Gordon a few
months back.
Yates and White stayed a little restless during this leg of
the trip in fears of robbers and would check in with Jake from time to time.
Yates noticed the stage started to slow a little and yelled out “Hal-loo” to
Jake and with no answer coming he and White thought for sure he had fallen
asleep. They finally woke him but before long Jake dozed off again with the
stage coming to a halt. It was in the middle of the night after all. Finally,
while the stage was still in motion but at another slowdown, Mr. White climbed
out and up on the seat next to Jake and after his initial surprise the two
visited the rest of the way into Gordon and Jake stayed awake.
As the team rolled into Gordon, they found a town mostly
asleep and consisting of many “cloth houses”, a town still very much in its
infancy. The men got cots at the Gordon hotel, which was just a large tent with
about 40 cots arranged along each side of a long room, reminding Yates of an
old hospital.
The next morning Yates described Gordon “Our eyes opened
this morning upon the first real mountains I had seen in the State, this being
right in and surrounded by small mountains, but we noticed that the growth upon
them was still of that “squatty statue which characterizes most of the wood” and
growth I have seen since leaving the Palestine section.” Yates continues remembering
the man in Comanche “I am here reminded of a rather timid fellow traveler I
left in Comanche and his story of Gordon folks that don’t mind killing a man.”
Yates marvels at the landscape surrounding town “This is a
right pretty section to look at, but too rough and uninviting to venture a home
in.”
Back in the tent hotel the men were each given a pail of water
to wash their hands and face and Yates was quickly appalled as he noticed how muddy
the water appeared. Yates commented “That water was straight from a muddy river
or pond. Now I do not want to make the impression that there is no water to be
reached by digging wells here for I do not know whether it is because this is
rather a new section and not developed yet or what, but one thing it does show,
is a great scarcity of springs.”
Upon checking at the depot, Yates determines he can catch a “fast
freight train” at 8 o’clock that morning for Dallas via Fort Worth, with a seat
in the conductor’s caboose car. This fit his plans better than waiting for the
1AM train.
Yates boarded the train at the Gordon depot bound for Dallas.
He noted that he shared the caboose car with about six or eight other
passengers. As the train left town and traveled east he remarked “We passed
along, and our way was frequently along at the foot of the mountains, some of
which were quite large and very rocky, and the peculiarity of them all along the
Texas Pacific R.R. line, is that they look like nature in time had spewed them
up from the bowels of the earth, they look crumbly, and the rock unsolid and
separate lying loosely upon the brinks and sides of the mountains and big cuts
of the R.R.”
Before long, the train made its first stop at a section
house where a couple of women approached the train were allowed to take several
gallons from the train’s tender to cook and wash with. When asked by a
passenger, one woman said “There’s no water here! The only water we can get is when
these kind train men let us have some.” Yates noticed that the water taken from
the train looked just like the muddy water he had at Gordon and wondered if the
train was supplying that town with it’s water as well.
As the train continued east, Yates noted that they had passed
over four iron bridges and several wooden ones since leaving Gordon and he mentioned
crossing the Brazos River some 17 miles east of Gordon. “The bottoms of the
Brazos strike me as some very fine land and look to be broad and good.”
The train reached Weatherford and stopped there for a bit.
Yates walked around the depot area looking for a little more of Texas and approached
a boy selling items at stand and asked, “You wouldn’t happen to have a big
spider, a Tarantula, for sale would you?” The boy laughed and said no but
overhearing the conversation the train conductor Bates said, “Let me ask the
depot agent!” The agent, a young man named Jim, agreed to help Yates find one
and the three men set out and before long found several Tarantula burrows. Jim
noted “When a Tarantula goes in their burrow, they always weave a net over the top
of the hole. So one can always be certain when the spider is at home when he
finds the door shut!” Jim ran and brought over a pan of water and poured the
water in the hole and out one came. Since they had some time on their hands,
they went about trying to find the largest one from the nearby burrows. Finally,
they found the largest one and it measured some 3 inches wide from foot to foot.
After the big find Conductor Bates called the agent “Tarantula Jim” and they
all had a big laugh.
The time came to reboard the train and continue the journey
east. Yates left the area with much to tell and journaled his stories of note.
When he returned home, he shared these stories with his hometown paper “The Greensboro
Patriot” and they appeared in print in the spring of 1881. This article was
derived from Charles G. Yates diary letters numbered 10, 12, 13 and 14.